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Marine Weather Message in Effect for the Coastal Waters

Marine section from the Area Forecast Discussion
issued at: Oct 16, 2017 8:51 PM HST

Very strong and gusty trade winds will continue through mid-week due to a strong surface high far north of the main Hawaiian Islands. This high will be replaced by another strong high on Wednesday, which will continue the gusty trades for an additional day or two. The strong to gale-force trade winds are also producing very rough and elevated seas around the islands. Gale warnings are posted for the Pailolo and Alenuihaha channels through Thursday afternoon, while a Small Craft Advisory remains in effect for the remaining Hawaiian waters through the same time. Trade winds speeds are expected to diminish slightly starting Friday as the high starts to weaken and begins to move toward the east.

Elevated, rough waves continue to produce dangerous conditions in surf zones along most east facing shores. Therefore, a High Surf Advisory remains in effect for these beaches through Wednesday afternoon. Since the trade winds will likely continue to be strong, this advisory will likely be extended from Wednesday night through Thursday.

A long-period south swell is forecast to peak some time later tonight or early Tuesday morning with a swell height of around 4 feet and a wave period near 17 seconds. A High Surf Advisory for the south facing shores of all islands remains in effect through Tuesday afternoon. This south swell will slowly diminish from Tuesday night through Wednesday. Small southwest and south- southwest swells arriving this weekend will produce small background surf along south facing shores.

The current north-northwest swell is expected to gradually subside through Wednesday. A long-period north-northwest swell arriving Thursday is expected to peak Friday. This swell will likely produce moderate-sized surf (below the High Surf Advisory threshold) along most north facing shores, as well as along some west facing shores of the smaller islands. A somewhat larger northwest swell is due in Sunday night and Monday of next week, with the surf potentially approaching High Surf Advisory levels along the north and some west facing shores of the smaller islands.

See the Oahu Surf Discussion (SRDHFO), which was updated earlier this afternoon, for more detailed information regarding the swell sources.

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About the Marine Program

Routine forecast are issued for the Hawaiian Coastal Waters, the Offshore Waters, and High Seas. Coastal Waters are within 40 nautical miles of the main Hawaiian islands. The Offshore area extends from this 40 nautical mile mark to 240 nautical miles of the main Hawaiian islands. The High Seas forecasts are issued for an area that covers approximately 15,000,000 square miles, extends as far north as 30N, and as far south as 25S, and between 120W south of the equator and 140W north of the equator to 160E.
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The marine forecasts issued are based on marine observations and model data. Marine observations include buoy and ship reports. Ship reports are invaluable to the NWS, and are reported through the U.S. Voluntary Observing Ship Project. If you are a mariner, please consider joining the nearly 1,000 volunteer ships from around the world that observe the weather at their location.